M5701L connector assembly instructions

Tools and materials required

• Some soldering iron (a trafo-pistol, or a micro-iron, a gas-propelled field instrument or some such)
• Solder wire (preferred properties: SnPb, with rosin or flux in the center, thin - around 1 mm)
• Rosin (finely ground or diluted in acetone is a bonus)
• A sharp knife and/or a stripping tool
• Combi pliers - or some other suitable pliers, to hold the center pin during soldering
• Wire cutting pliers (side cutters)
• 16mm open-ended spanners - two pieces (or a 16mm + an adjustable wrench)
• A mini-vice is useful too - or lockable pliers (or a strong rubber band over the handles of combi-pliers) = "third hand" - not entirely necessary
• A needle file is sometimes useful (flat, triangular or square; circle-shaped is no use)

Procedure

First of all, slide the tightening nut and the washers on the cable, ordered as seen in the picture.
With this connector model, the final slanted washer is big enough to slide over the cable's outer sheath.
The red rubber seal is an original from Shallin, the black O-ring is an upgrade by FCCPS :-)

After you've slid the washers on, strip about 15-17 mm of the cable's outer sheath (it's 15 mm in the photoes).
Be careful not to cut into the woven shield/braid, you're going to need its strands later, preferably intact.

Spread the strands of the woven shield/braid.

Slide the slanted washer forward to the braid strands and wrap the strands back around the slanted washer.

Bend the strands all the way under the flange of the washer. Don't worry if the strand ends don't align under the flange very neatly, the O-ring will sort them out later on.

Strip the dielectric. This inner dielectric insulation should remain about 1 mm longer than the outer sheath. Next, you will need to trim (shorten) the center conductor. There are actually about three ways of how to do it:

• Strip the dielectric first, then trim (and twist), then soak in solder (tin).
  Using this method, you risk that the stranded conductor spreads (untwists) during solder application and afterwards won't fit inside the center pin.
• First snip the dielectric together with the center conductor, then carefully cut off the remaining last piece of dielectric (careful not to cut the center conductor) and while pulling the dielectric off the center conductor, gently twist it - so that the strands of the center conductor get twisted in the process. Then soak in tin... this way the strands spread a little less.
• Strip the whole length of dielectric first, then twist the center conductor, then soak the whole length (~15 mm) of the center conductor. Only then, trim the center conductor. This is probably the best way of how to prevent its strands from spreading. The ugly end gets snipped off and discarded.

The hole inside the center pin is about 6 mm deep. I.e., the tin-soaken trimmed conductor should be about 5-6 mm long.

If you drop a grain of rosin into the hole in the center pin, it helps the tin to adhere. Insert the tin-soaken conductor into the center pin thus prepared.
Next, solder the pin on the conductor. Heat up the pin with the iron, perhaps add a bit of tin (solder) into the pin through the sideways hole - not much, it should not leak out of the pin through the hole, it would create a droplet, which would fuse with the shielding wires...
Another approach is, that you first apply some tin on the inner surface of the hole in the pin - perhaps leave a small droplet inside. Then, while heating the pin up, you slide the conductor into the molten tin in the hole. Perhaps the best way to go about this is to gently clutch the pin (by its tip) vertically in a vice, with the center hole facing up, drop a small bit of tin inside, and then insert the conductor (while still heating up the pin from outside).
In order to better heat up the pin, you can improve its thermal contact with the iron by smearing some tin deliberately behind the "flange" of the pin (where it won't hamper the pin's insertion into connector body). A drop of tin conducts heat better than air. If you overdose it a bit, you can later scratch the surplus tin off with a knife or a needle file.

With this particular connector model, consider a small final touch: you can secure the "narrow pin heel behind the flange" against contact with the shielding conductors by sliding a 4mm length of the stripped cable's outer sheath over the critical place.
Note: while this is okay with the soft RG58, you should probably refrain from using the rigid PE outer sheath of the H1555 / RF240 in this way (you could even damage the connector internals). Consider using some heat-shrinkable electrician's sleeve instead.

And this is what the 4mm addon insulation looks like, on the pin.

Finally, slide the prepared internals into the connector body, slide in the washers and tighten the nut.

And this is the final result.

Finally, check the assembled cabling for short circuits! (between the center conductor and the shield)